Levanto’s annex, Colla Cruz was one of the major crossroads of the Inca Empire. The Incas had to build this major road Qapaq Nan for the conquest, as told in the Chronicles of the Inca. It started from the Wari hub in Huanuco, winding over a thousand miles of major roads (not trails) to Levanto, and extended to Ecuador and Columbia. The total network length through Chile would go from California to London! The Inca Military Garrison is this zone’s first restoration, done as a labor of love by Morgan Davis.  It stands today at this major hub of ancient roads in Levanto’s annex of Colla Cruz.  The Incas transplanted loyal pacified Indians here, from Arequipa’s Colca Canyon, to guard this strategic location.  Thus Colla Cruz means the Cola Indian’s crossroads of the Incas’ north / south highway, and the “Chachapoyan east / west road”, from Moyobamba’s jungle to Cajamarca and the coast.

Levanto’s most historical event occurred during the Inca Revolt against the Spanish.  The Incas couldn’t hold a position at Sacsahuaman or Ollantaytambo so retreated to the miserable jungle below Machu Picchu.  Inca Manco knew his empire the best so decided to move his army to Levanto, (Kuelap wasn’t mentioned because it was abandon even before the Inca or Spanish conquest).  The Dept. of Amazonas was the strongest fortified zone of the Americas, with Levanto its major city, offering the best defense against cavalry and artillery. The Incas had controlled this zone for only a short time, putting down several revolts of the Cloud People.  Inca Manco’s army was still a thousand miles away when their advance guard arrived and was massacred by the Cloud People. The Inca went back to the jungle, not wanting to fight two wars. Later while restoring the Inca Military Garrison, many sling stones and cracked skulls were unearthed from the Cloud Peoples attack that over ran it. 

Time has frozen in Levanto. The gigantic volumes of white limestone blocks, in houses, fences, etc., gives a clue of the past size and importance. On hills overlooking Levanto are 2 walled city ruins of Yalape and San Pedro de Washpa. The town had water supplied from an Inca Canal from very far away, and this can be seen from near the road and Yalape.  You get chills sitting in the ancient church on Levanto’s plaza, one of Peru’s oldest buildings built less than 50 years after Columbus’ voyage, making it 5 years older than Lima. It has a high hand carved wooden alter. A candle illuminates a faithful congregation of 20 to 50 descendants, as a violin plays.

Levanto has ruins of many 500-year-old colonial Spanish houses made from stones of the former Chachapoyan circular houses. The stones have fossils of marine nautilus. The stonework below the Inca Garrison is classic Inca stonework and very different from the Chachapoyan type of construction used in the building above. A colonial Molino Huayco with the Banos de Loloc would also be a nice day walk.  However the most spectacular hike is along this major Inca Highway Qapaq Nan to the highway just outside Chachapoyas at El Molina. This major Inca road follows the ridges and offers spectacular panoramic views.  It’s perhaps the best major ancient road existing in Peru because until recently, it was the only way to Levanto, so the village maintained it. You can appreciate the Inca skill in constructing this road, the steady grades, and drainage.  If you go the other direction down from Colla Cruz, you can go to Tingo below Kuelap. If you want an enjoyable walk without a strain, ride up to Levanto and walk downhill to Chachapoyas 4 hours from there.

ITINERARY:

1. Bus to  Levanto and sites of your choice, night at Levanto Lodge 
2. Ruins of Yalape Citadel.  At your pace Rosurco ruins or San Pedro de Washpa, night at Levanto Lodge.
3. Inca Road back to Chachapoyas after any other additional sites. 

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